About this object

A rectangular cloak (ngore) made from New Zealand Flax fibre with wool running threads at intervals on the outside and wool fringes on the bottom and side edges.

This garment was made by finger-weaving or twining without the use of a loom. The main technique used is double-pair twining, beginning at the bottom edge with the loose warp threads (whenu) forming a fringe and finishing at the neck with the warps folded over and left loose, and dark blue and brown wool threads twined in. The loose warps form short fringes at the ends of the neck edge. There are 12 warps per cm and the wefts (aho) are 5mm apart. There are thirteen grouped extra short wefts (aho poka) at the shoulder and nineteen at the hip to provide shaping.

Dark and light blue, red and brown wool running threads form rectangles on the main section of the cloak and along the side edges, with dark blue and red wool threads in lines along the bottom edge. There are light blue wool tassels along the bottom edge, and dark blue, light blue and brown tassels along the sides. The tassels are inserted upside down. Brown and light blue wool warps along the side edges form a plaited finish, and the wefts are cut and tied.

The cloak is slightly stained in places.

Object specifics

  • Type
  • Culture
  • Artist/Maker
    Unknown or unrecorded
  • Place made
    Oceania: Polynesia: New Zealand
  • Date made
    Before 1894
  • Materials
    Fibre Yarn Flax (NZ) (Phormium sp); Textile Wool; Dye; Technique: Twined
  • Location
    World Museum, Level 3, World Cultures
  • Acquisition
    Purchased from Norwich Castle Museum, 1956
  • Collector
    Unknown or unrecorded
  • Place collected
    Unknown or unrecorded
  • Date collected
    Unknown or unrecorded
  • Measurements
    154.0 x 1.0 x 141.0 cm
  • Note
    Attribution: Mid 19th century (David Simmons, August 1978).

    Comments: More modern cloaks tend to have the bottom fringe woven with surface decoration, and tend to be more finely twined, sometimes with feathers in lines or rectangular shapes (Mick Pendergrast, March 1994). Perhaps red wool was only available towards the end of the weaving (Maureen Lander, 7 June 2006).

    Acquired by Norwich Castle Museum from Samuel Culley in 1894.
  • Related people
    Samuel Culley (Previous owner); Norwich Castle Museum and Art Gallery (Previous owner)

Where is this object from?


Previous owners

  • Norwich Castle Museum and Art Gallery

    Owned from: 1894
    How acquired: Purchase
    Owned until: 1956
    Disposal method: Unknown or unrecorded
  • Samuel Culley

    Owned from: Unknown or unrecorded
    How acquired: Gift
    Owned until: 1894
    Disposal method: Unknown or unrecorded
Object view = Humanities
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