Cloak

A rectangular cloak (korowai) made from New Zealand Flax fibre with black-dyed tassels forming a fringe along the top edge, and on the main section of the cloak. The side and bottom edges are decorated with feathers, some possibly chicken feathers. This garment was made by finger-weaving or twining without the use of a loom. The main technique used is double-pair twining, which forms the wefts (aho). This began at the bottom edge with the ends of the loose warps (whenu) forming a fringe and finished in a plait at the neck edge. There are two three-ply twisted ties at the neck. There are seven warps per cm, and the wefts (aho) are 9-10mm apart. There are three extra wefts (aho poka) on each side at intervals from the shoulders area down and three groups of two together on each side at the hips, to provide shaping. Tassels are inserted sideways on the main part of the cloak and upside down for the fringe at the neck edge. They are two-ply, rolled and dyed black. The feathers are inserted vertically.